

Having been too scared to go to a footy match back in the UK for fear of being glassed, I jumped at the opportunity to go to an international level game in Malawi and sit on concrete bleachers that had been condemned by FIFA several years ago, where we were supposed to be relieved that there were personnel watching over us with their rifles slung over their shoulders. I would have been more reassured if they hadn’t been drunk. And wearing bandannas. I didn’t think bandannas were standard issue?
We sat in a row of peachy whiteness and the sun promptly came out. The boy selling straw hats had clocked us when we came in and knew we wouldn’t be able to survive without him and just waited patiently until we wilted. And wilt we did, we would have paid whatever price he named but he was merciful with us.
The first half was a bit disappointing with Guinea scoring a goal from a corner without about 90% of the crowd even noticing; we just wondered why they were walking back to the centre. The second half was much more exciting and Malawi equalised within the first 5 minutes and then went 2-1 ahead with 15 minutes to go. So, I mentioned that the stands had been condemned by FIFA. That didn’t stop the back 20 rows doing a victory dance right where they were. You could see the concrete sway. Maybe that was my imagination.
We walked back home with homemade knitted sweatbands and headbands in the Malawi colours (Green red and black) which had cost us 20p, pressing fists with other jubilant Malawi supporters. They have one more match which decides whether they go through to the All Africa Football Championships but that one is against Ivory Coast. For those who know (which now includes me) that will be a tough game, but Malawi is nothing if not an optimistic country.
